Conquering the Lake District’s Iconic Routes: A Performance Driving Odyssey with Rally Royalty
For a decade, navigating the intricate tapestry of the automotive landscape has been my professional calling. From the hallowed grounds of automotive engineering to the pulse-quickening exhilaration of on-road performance, I’ve witnessed firsthand the evolution of driving dynamics and the enduring allure of exceptional machinery. This past year, a particular expedition into the heart of England’s breathtaking Lake District offered a profound opportunity to marry my passion for high-performance vehicles with the wisdom of a genuine rally legend, Malcolm Wilson OBE.
The Lake District, a region renowned for its dramatic fells, shimmering waters, and, let’s be frank, its characteristically damp climate, is far more than just a picturesque postcard. It’s a crucible for automotive testing and an undeniable playground for those who appreciate the art of driving. On a recent, decidedly autumnal Tuesday, the serene environs of M-Sport’s Dovenby Hall became the launchpad for an exploration of this very terrain. The mission: to traverse some of the United Kingdom’s most celebrated driving roads, guided by the insights of a man whose career is intrinsically woven into the fabric of motorsport history.
Our convoy was a compelling study in contrasts, a curated selection designed to ignite conversation and test the mettle of any driver. At the vanguard, a brand-new Aston Martin DBX S, boasting a formidable 717 horsepower, represented the pinnacle of modern luxury performance SUV engineering. Following closely was a relatively recent Toyota GR Yaris, a feisty, rally-bred hatchback packing 276 horsepower, a machine that has quickly earned a cult following for its unadulterated driving engagement. Bringing up the rear, a venerable 1989 Audi Quattro 20v, with its 217 horsepower, stood as a potent reminder of a bygone era of iconic performance motoring. This trio, a blend of raw power, agile prowess, and historical significance, was precisely the kind of assembly that could tempt a figure like Malcolm Wilson OBE, a man whose professional life encompasses being a British rally champion, a leading test driver, a formidable team principal, and now, even the FIA deputy president for sport.
While the official reason for our gathering was to document the Lake District’s finest driving experiences with these distinct vehicles, the true draw was the chance to spend time with Wilson. Having engaged with him previously at a prestigious automotive evaluation event held in this very region and at M-Sport’s headquarters, I harbored a strong suspicion that the Aston Martin, a marque he’s openly admired and previously owned, would hold a certain appeal. Furthermore, the road-going iteration of the very car his team has been competing against in the World Rally Championship for years – the Toyota GR Yaris – was also poised to capture his interest.
The Audi Quattro, while a significant historical icon, was initially something of an afterthought in our planning. Indeed, the morning commenced with a minor hiccup: a jump-start was required, a subtle nod to its vintage and a reminder of its mechanical idiosyncrasies. Yet, to our surprise, Wilson gravitated towards the classic Ingolstadt machine with an immediate and decisive preference. He made it unequivocally clear that the driver’s seat of the Quattro was his chosen domain for the outset.
This immediate connection with the Audi was a revelation. His son, Matthew Wilson, a world-class rally driver in his own right, a seasoned WRC competitor, and the current team boss for the M-Sport Dakar team, and I exchanged knowing glances and suppressed smiles. We tacitly agreed to divide the remaining machinery between us, accepting our roles as the less-privileged occupants of the Aston Martin and the GR Yaris. With the driving assignments settled, our expedition into the Lake District’s driving nirvana was officially underway. The objective: to uncover the preferred routes and driving roads of two individuals with an unparalleled understanding of vehicle dynamics and a deep-seated appreciation for the art of motoring.
Autocar’s visits to this corner of the United Kingdom are relatively infrequent, but recent road tests have reignited our keen interest. This region is undeniably where localized knowledge translates into significant advantages, particularly when the goal is to navigate away from the ubiquitous throngs of tourists, cyclists, and other recreational users. The nuanced understanding of traffic patterns and the optimal times to access certain routes is invaluable.
As I settled into the commanding position within the Aston Martin DBX S, taking the rearmost spot in our three-car procession, I recognized it as the ideal vantage point to observe the unfolding dynamics. The Audi, having had some time to recharge its battery, was purring, though Malcolm’s engagement with it was anything but leisurely. By the time the Aston Martin had exited the sweeping driveway of Dovenby Hall, the distinct silhouette of the Quattro had already begun to recede into the distance.
The distinctive warble and rhythmic sway of the Audi Quattro seemed to propel it almost out of sight. Matthew, maintaining an engaging yet measured pace in pursuit, set the tone for the initial leg of our journey. It was clear from the outset that this was not going to be a sedate tour.
Within moments, we found ourselves navigating the charming, albeit busy, streets of Cockermouth. This wasn’t an accidental deviation; Malcolm’s deliberate route through the town center allowed him to engage with locals, winding down the electric windows of the Quattro to offer waves and greetings. The warm reception he received, accompanied by appreciative smiles, underscored his enduring status as a beloved local figure, a sentiment that perhaps transcends any minor inconveniences experienced by M-Sport’s more vociferous neighbors.
Shortly thereafter, our true exploration of the Lake District’s driving roads commenced. We headed south of Cockermouth, traversing the quaint hamlet of Brackenthwaite, and then emerged alongside the imposing flank of Grasmoor, with the tranquil waters of Crummock Water stretching out beside us. The road began to undulate and curve, its contours mirroring the natural topography. We paused briefly for a set of drive-by photographs, capturing the dramatic interplay of machine and landscape, before pressing onward towards the village of Buttermere, winding our way past the lake and through the hamlet of Gatesgarth.
Despite the mid-November chill and the persistent drizzle, the scene was captivating. As we journeyed through the lakeside woodlands, the fallen leaves, still clinging to their vibrant yellows and greens, created a dazzling spectacle, piled high on either side of the road. Within the opulent confines of the Aston Martin DBX S, I found myself instinctively tightening my grip and exercising considerable caution when encountering oncoming traffic, meticulously managing the car’s immense power. In retrospect, Wilson Sr. and Jr., leading the charge, appeared to be reveling in the raw enjoyment of the drive, while I was content to absorb the rich, resonant soundtrack of the V8 engine.
Our destination for this segment was the Honister Pass, a truly awe-inspiring ascent, even on a damp morning. Rainwater cascaded down the steep inclines, transforming the landscape into something akin to a scene conjured from the imagination of J.R.R. Tolkien. Enormous boulders, seemingly dislodged from the heavens, littered the valley floor, and at the apex of the pass, the entrance to an old slate mine, now reimagined as the Sky Hi Café, stood marked by weathered stone plinths.
“If this were the height of tourist season, we wouldn’t be here,” Matthew explained as he collected our coffees. He highlighted the sheer volume of cyclists and mountain bikers that frequent this narrow, serpentine road, a testament to its popularity among outdoor enthusiasts, including himself. Despite the potential for congestion, the passage is undeniably worth experiencing, provided one chooses their timing judiciously.
During our brief respite, Malcolm recounted a poignant childhood memory: collecting slate for the fireplace at his family home in Workington at the tender age of seven. He vividly recalled the advice his father received regarding the van’s sliding doors: “They told my dad to keep the sliding doors of the van wedged open as we drove down, so we could dive out if the brakes failed!” This anecdote served as a stark reminder of the inherent challenges and risks associated with navigating these routes in earlier times.
With a degree of reluctance, we managed to persuade Malcolm to relinquish the driver’s seat of the Audi. “I had two Quattro road cars when I was driving for Audi Sport in the 80s,” he reminisced, “but they weren’t 20-valves like this. They had a lot more turbo lag: the power was very much on or off, and you really had to wait for it. This one is so much better.” His assessment spoke volumes about the advancements in performance tuning and the evolving nature of power delivery in enthusiast vehicles.
The baton was passed. Malcolm assumed command of the Aston Martin DBX S for the next leg of our journey, while Matthew took the reins of the Audi, and I found myself at the wheel of the Toyota GR Yaris. We began our descent on the eastern side of Honister Pass, heading towards Seatoller. Here, the road widened, and its gradients and radii became more forgiving, allowing for a more spirited pace. We then continued through the picturesque Borrowdale valley, tracing the course of the River Derwent northward. The panoramic views unfolding through the windscreen remained consistently epic, with the imposing silhouette of Scafell Pike occasionally peeking into view through the driver’s side window.
This serene vista, however, was soon to transform. The charming town center of Keswick passed by, followed by our progress past Bassenthwaite and Dodd Wood. Turning northeast at the lake’s northernmost tip, we charted a course towards Uldale and Caldbeck.
Suddenly, the landscape shifted from mountainous grandeur to sweeping moorland. The presence of tourist traffic diminished, replaced by longer, straighter stretches of road, offering excellent visibility over crests and undulations. This was clearly one of Malcolm’s favored testing grounds, evidenced by the discernible quickening of his pace, a reflection of his intimate familiarity with the terrain. It was as if he possessed an innate understanding of when and where to anticipate the rare farm trailer or the occasional slow-moving MPV. The road itself presented a thrilling combination of fast, cambered corners and a variety of gradients, ensuring a consistently engaging driving experience. He later admitted that this very route serves as his preferred artery for accessing the M6 motorway to the east, adeptly circumventing the congested A66.
After a few exhilarating miles, we pulled into a substantial gravel roadside car park, initiating the first of our planned vehicle swaps. A few minutes later, we repeated the process, allowing for a candid exchange of impressions. Malcolm’s admiration for the Aston Martin was palpable, particularly its ability to mask its considerable size, weight, and speed with such effortless benignity and precise handling. He also expressed his approval of the Toyota GR Yaris, appreciating its inherent fun factor. However, he found the car’s deluge of information and electronic interventions to be somewhat overwhelming. “Who needs to know all that?” he mused, reflecting a preference for a more focused, less digitally saturated driving experience.
Both Wilsons, however, reserved their most enthusiastic commentary for the Audi Quattro. They were astounded by how accurately its performance level still felt suited to real-world road driving, even decades after its inception. They marveled at its progressive grip, its intuitive steering, its compliant ride, and its balanced handling, particularly when coaxed with just the right amount of momentum. Crucially, they emphasized its tangible sense of aliveness, a characteristic that often feels diminished in more modern, heavily insulated vehicles. This emotional connection to the driving experience is a hallmark of truly exceptional performance cars, regardless of their age.
From our vantage point, it was a brief and enjoyable run back to M-Sport, a fitting conclusion to our day with both Malcolm and Matthew. Their afternoon, already demanding, was further enriched by a few hours spent as enthusiastic, albeit unpaid, guides through some of the Lake District’s most compelling driving roads. It was evident that neither of them begrudged the interruption to their busy schedules; rather, they embraced the opportunity to share their passion and expertise, reinforcing the profound and lasting impact of iconic driving routes on the automotive enthusiast.
The quest for exceptional driving experiences is a continuous journey, and the Lake District, with its captivating topography and the invaluable insights of figures like Malcolm Wilson, offers an unparalleled destination for any petrolhead. If you’re looking to explore the thrilling potential of performance vehicles on some of the UK’s most renowned roads, or if you’re in the market for expert automotive advice, don’t hesitate to reach out. Let’s discover the open road together.
